"This world is but a canvas to our imagination." - HDT

Saturday, June 28, 2014

Day 106-110: Jordan, Glendive, Richardton, Bismarck, Gackle

Day 106: Winnett to Jordan, 78 miles
Day 107: Jordan to Glendive, 120 miles
Day 108: Glendive to Richardton,ND, 130
Day 109: Richardton to Bismarck, 80 miles
Day 110: Bismarck to Gackle, 99 miles

Day 106: 6/26/14

I had a great nights sleep at my no joke $39.00 hotel room and left at 10:00 a.m. Just in time to ride down to the Kozy Korner Cafe to watch the U.S.A v. Germany game.  The tv was on the bad side of the cafe which technically wasn't open at 10:00 but the old man and woman that were running the place let me set up a table in the bar in front of the tv so that I could eat my breakfast and watch the game at the same time.  It was a pretty sweet setup if I do say so myself.

I asked the old guy, who was wheeling around an oxygen tank as he was taking orders if I could get a refill on my coffee and he looked at me, took a huff from his tank and said, "I don't care.  It's right over there.  Go get it yourself!", and pointed behind the counter to the coffee pot.  I then asked for some half and half and he pointed over to the fridge.  I got the picture after that and from there on out made myself at home behind the counter as I got my 3rd, 4th and well you get the idea refills.

During the game I also kept checking the weather, as it was not looking too good, outside and it was on and off raining the whole time and the pattern didn't change when the game ended.  I hit the road around noon full and happy that even with the loss to Germany we made it to the knockout phase of the World Cup with my rain at the ready for the impending rain.

The section of Route 200 from Winnett to Jordan was a very pretty 78 miles through pasture lands and farms with little traffic.  However, it was also without any towns or services... I got rained on pretty hard early in the ride and then after about 2:00 p.m. I made it the rest of the ride into Jordan without getting wet again.  I was able to see the storms and the storm clouds brewing on all sides of me and yet I was able to keep dry.  Winning!

Jordan was another tiny town with a few bars, a grocery store and a post office and I was all set to throw the tent up in the town park when a woman came up to me at the market and started asking about my trip.  After a few minutes of talking, and her making the decision that I wasn't a deranged psycho-killer she offered me laundry, shower, a nice home-cooked meal with her and her family and most importantly a dry place to sleep with a roof which I quickly accepted.  

A fantastic end to an already good day!

Day 107: 6/27/14

I was on the road riding by 8:00 a.m. after breakfast in Jordan facing another long stretch of no services, no towns, no nothing except for grass and cows.  I rode 68 miles from Jordan to Circle (the next town) arriving at around 12:30 p.m.  The only thing of note on this stretch was how bad the road condition was.  There was basically no shoulder so I had to ride out in the lane with cars/trucks/RVs zooming by me at 50-60 m.p.h. and even worse there were cracks across the lanes that had been sealed over so about every 10-20 feet or so I would hit another sealed over crack with a dadump, dadump, dadump, dadump.  Forget water boarding! Get these prisoners of ours and make them ride a road like this and see if they don't break!

Anyways, I got to Jordan and after devouring a 12" meatball sub, 2 giant sugar cookies, and Mountain Dew at a deli there in town I was feeling pretty chipper and decided I'd try to ride on to the next town... (Only another 52 miles)

This section of road was way better and was almost completely flat with a slight downgrade and I pumped out those miles in about 2 1/2 hours ending the day at 120 miles... Close to my record of 125.  I ended up eating a dinner of peanut butter and honey sandwiches granola bars and camped out behind a school in town. Free sleep is the best sleep!

Day 108: 6/28/14

Free sleep in places you really shouldn't be also means waking up very early so after a decent night of sleep I was up and  out of Glendive without a trace before 6:00 a.m.

It was a mostly overcast morning with a slight tailwind and I pushed out the first 30 miles to Wibaux (just short of the North Dakota border) by a little after 8:00 a.m. where I took a short break to eat some breakfast and get some caffeine. 

Then I was back out there and besides a quick stop at the border for my picture with the North Dakota Welcome Sign I rode straight through to Belfield, an 80-mile trek, arriving there at just after noon. It was at this point in the day that I decided I was going to break my record for miles in a day and so after a big burger, fries and ice cream at a Dairy Queen in Bellfield I got back on the bike and pushed another 50 miles through the flats of North Dakota to Richardton where I was graciously taken in by Joel and Sasha and their adorable 5-yr. old daughter Masha.  

I had a great night hanging out with these guys and was oh so happy for the warm shower and the nice cushiony bed to sleep on that night.  120 miles the day before and now 130 miles this day.  I'd say that's pretty good.  

Day 109: 6/29/14

After breakfast in Richardton I headed out and with the help of some 30-40 m.p.h. tailwinds I averaged 20 m.p.h. throughout the entire day and got to Bismarck by lunch.  I hung out a McDonald's for a few hours drinking soda and eating chicken nuggets and ice cream and then rode to my warmshowers hosts, Steve and Dawn, who owned the Broken Spoke Bike Shop right in Bismarck.

At The Broken Spoke Bike Shop, another group of cyclists Pete, Jane and George (on a east to west XC adventure of their own) were already there having braved the winds all day coming West and the whole gang, after showers of course, hopped in the Bike Shop van and drove down to Golden Corral and feasted on the plentiful spread that is the Corral de Oro and it was glorious. 

After dinner we drove back to the Shop/House and hit the sack.  It had been a long day for everyone.

Day 110: 6/30/14

High winds again! 20 m.p.h. average speed again! Awesome warmshowers hosts again!  

Today I rode 99 miles, 82 of which were directly East on Old Highway 10 and on the Interstate and they were amazing, 17 were South on Route 30 and they SUCKED!  Still not as bad as if I were going West...

Tonight I'm staying at the Honey Hub Hostel in Gackle, a tiny town in between Bismarck and Fargo.  The hosts are Jason and Ginny and they are beekeepers that spend their time here in Gackle and in California, transporting their bees back and forth between summer and winter.  

The Hostel is packed tonight!  There is a group of 13 "grey-haired" cyclists as one member called themselves riding across to Bar Harbor, Maine and then there is another younger rider who is riding West to San Francisco.  Even with the large group I've been able to shower and do laundry and now am cooking up a pizza to eat and will be sleeping in the bunk room on a bed.  A great relief as it is starting to storm out tonight.

My private screening and breakfast at the Kozy Kafe in Winnett.

Storm clouds on the morning leaving Winnett.

Can't see too well, but it's the rolling hills leading to Jordan.

Grasslands en route to Glendive

Cool bike art outside the market I went to in Wibaux right before going into N. Dakota

Welcome to North Dakota

Little Missouri National Grasslands, Medora, ND

Little Missouri National Grasslands, Medora, ND

Little Missouri National Grasslands, Medora, ND

Little Missouri National Grasslands, Medora, ND

Assumption Abbey, Richardton, ND

Leaving Richardton en route to Bismarck with my nice 35 m.p.h tailwinds....

Winds didn't stop Monday... 31 m.p.h.!!!!

Rest stop on the Interstate en route to Gackle.

Hiding out and getting a break at the rest stop.

Honey Hub Hostel in Gackle, ND

Honey Hub Lounge, Gackle, ND

Honey Hub bunks, Gackle, ND

Yep, it's DiGiorno and I'll be eating the entire thing!

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Day 101-105: Missoula, Lincoln, Belt, Lewistown, Winnett

Day 101: Missoula, 0 miles
Day 102: Missoula to Lincoln, 81 miles
Day 103: Lincoln to Belt, 113 miles
Day 104: Belt to Lewistown, 89 miles
Day 105: Lewistown to Winnett, 58 miles

Clark Fork Market, Missoula - spent some time on my day off in Missoula walking around this market.  All the tents in the distance are different local food venders with all sorts of foods and drinks.

After the market I walked up the street and found this guy jamming on a piano.  This piano is 1 of 2 pianos that have both been put in well trafficked pedestrian areas and are open to anyone to sit down and play.  This guy is really good.  I ended up talking to him after a while and he's from Brooklyn and grew up very close to where I lived.

Missoula People's Market, W. Pine Street - Found another craft market just outside on the street from Adventure Cycling Association.

Blackfoot River, Bonner, MT

Ride to Lincoln

Ride to Lincoln

Leaving Lincoln in the a.m. and had zero visibility on the road.

Then the sun came out and started burning the mist and fog away.

Then the road ceased to exist for about 9 miles...

70 degrees below zero!! En route to Rogers Pass.

Rogers Pass, 5,610 ft.

Continental Divide Selfie. 

Coming down from Rogers Pass

Coming down from Rogers Pass

Looking back up at Rogers Pass

En route to Lincoln after Rogers Pass

As my friend Adam put it, "Default Windows Desktop Background Image."  Who knew it was in Central Montana.

Cows!!!!

Cool clouds....

Had this exact view for the entire day into Lewistown.... 

Wacky art just before Lewistown

ART.

Winnett, Montana tucked right up under that ridge...

Winnett, Montana... Stopped here for lunch and ended up talking to a couple who was travelling through the area and then they left and when I went to pay for my meal they had already paid it.  That's a first for this trip.  Also, I'm staying at the "hotel" that that sign is pointing too... Yep, it is awesome!

Also, Public Service Announcement: Don't do meth!

Seriously, just don't!

God damnit! Just stop already!!!!!!

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Day 96-100: Coeur D'Alene, Kellogg, Quartz, Missoula

Day 96: Spokane to Coeur D'Alene, 50 miles
Day 97: Coeur D'Alene
Day 98: Coeur D'Alene to Kellogg, 41 miles
Day 99: Kellogg to Quartz Flat Campground, Montana, 87 miles
Day 100: Quartz Flat to Missoula, 53 miles

Day 96-97: 6/16/14-6/17/14

In the morning Bob rode out with me from the house and took me through downtown Spokane and to see some of the sights of the city which was really cool.  Then after a cup of coffee at a local joint in downtown Spokane we parted ways at the Centennial Trail that took me along the Spokane River on a really nice bike trail.  It's certainly nice not having to hear or think about cars and trucks whenever possible!

At about 30 miles into the ride I crossed into Idaho and although I wasn't on the highway still got my pic at the border with a plaqued rock that designated the line. 

From the border I rode the last 20 miles into Coeur D'Alene where I ended the day early at a Motel 6.  My first stay in a hotel since San Francisco. 

For the last few days I'd been dealing with a nagging Achilles issue on my right foot that has been rather uncomfortable when riding, at times shooting sharp pains up the back of my ankle and calf so I decided it was worth it to get a hotel and try to give the leg a little bit of rest after 9 days straight of riding up and down on some pretty serious terrain.  It was also a good excuse to be off the bike so that I could catch up on my World Cup watching and get to see USA's awesome win over Ghana in their opener.

I stayed in the Motel 6 on Tuesday as well to continue resting the leg and watch more soccer.  It was also a nice day to be inside as it rained throughout the entire day and night.

Day 98: 6/18/14

I tried waiting out the rain Wednesday and thought I'd done it by 11:00 a.m. when the rain stopped and I got out on the road, but just a few miles outside of Coeur D'Alene the rain started up again.  To make it worse I was riding along I-90 and so besides getting rained on from above I was getting constant spits of rain and water hitting me in the face and side from the trucks and cars that were passing by on my left.  It was a pretty miserable day of riding to say the least.  

Just outside of Coeur D'Alene I rode up and over 4th of July Pass (3,173 ft.) which was a climb of about 1,200-1,500 ft. from Coeur D'Alene.  Minus the wetness it was a fairly easy climb.  

I came down off of the Pass and got a really bad chill and decided that I should stop and get indoors so I stopped about 10 miles short of where I had originally intended to get for the day in Kellogg,ID and hunkered down for the night.

Day 99: 6/19/14

I got out early from Kellogg and finally the rain and bad weather cleared and the sun began to burn through the clouds and I got my first glimpses of blue sky since Spokane.  

I was again on I-90 for the entire day but, without the rain it was really nice.  It had a rumble strip and an expansive shoulder so even though there was a lot of traffic I felt perfectly comfortable.  From Kellogg that sat at 2,303 ft. I rode about 25 miles up to Lookout Pass at 4,860 ft.  Again, it was a pretty gradual climb for most of it and still nothing like the climbs in the Cascades.

Crossing over Lookout Pass also marked the Idaho/Montana border and my journey back into Mountain Time Zone.

It was a perfect day of riding and I ended at Quartz Flat Campground right off of I-90.  The campground was almost completely empty and I got to pop the tent for the first time in a while and it felt really good.  I went back to my camping staples for dinner and feasted on some peanut butter, honey and banana sandwiches, a can of pears, and some jalapeƱo kettle chips and then spent the rest of the night relaxing in my tent and finally finishing my book, Dharma Bums, which I'd picked up back in San Francisco.

Kerouac at his finest...

"I see a vision of a great rucksack revolution thousands or even millions of Americans wandering around with rucksacks, going up mountains to pray, making children laugh and old men glad, making young girls happy and old girls happier, all of 'em Zen lunatics who go about writing poems that happen to appear in their heads for no reason and also by being kind and also by strange unexpected acts keep giving visions of eternal freedom to everybody and all living creatures." Dharma Bums, Jack Kerouac 

"And in keeping with Japhy's habit of always getting down on one knee and delivering a little prayer to the camp we left, to the one in the Sierra, and the others in Marin, and the little prayer of gratitude he had delivered to Sean's shack the day he sailed away, as I was hiking down the mountain with my pack I turned and knelt on the trail and said "Thank you, shack." Then I added "Blah," with a little grin, because I knew that shack and that mountain would understand what that meant, and turned and went on down the trail back to this world." Dharma Bums, Jack Kerouac

I went to sleep in the empty campground with these final words from Kerouac swirling around in my head and it was glorious.

Day 100: 6/20/14

But, my rucksack revolution is far from over so I won't be going down any roads back to this world just yet...

I woke in the morning and after a little grub finished my ride down I-90 into Missoula, the headquarters of Adventure Cycling Association.

I hit up the Headquarters and got my picture on the Wall of Fame for 2014 and got to indulge in all of the free soda and ice cream bars I wanted and then I rode down through town to my warmshowers hosts house, Ethel, where I'd be staying for the next 2 nights to get a feel for this cool little town tucked away into the mountains of Montana.

Spokane River, Spokane

Spokane River

Downtown Spokane

Downtown Spokane

Downtown Spokane

Washington/Idaho Border

Washington/Idaho Border

Advantages of staying at a hotel... Loading up on the complimentary soap!

Cool bridge leaving Coeur D'Alene

Coeur D'Alene Trail

Morning ride out of Kellogg

Clouds finally broke in Mullan,ID

Lookout Pass and Montana/Idaho border

Welcome to Montana!

Montana

Montana

Quartz Flat Campground, Montana

Sunset at the campground

Adventure Cycling Association, Missoula, MT

Adventure Cycling Association, Missoula, MT

Adventure Cycling Association, Missoula, MT

Adventure Cycling Association, Missoula, MT

Adventure Cycling Association, Missoula, MT (wall of fame riders from 2013-14)

Adventure Cycling Association, Missoula, MT ( I made the wall of fame!!)