"This world is but a canvas to our imagination." - HDT

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Day 77-82: McMinnville, Portland and Seattle

Day 77: Beverly Beach to McMinnville, 77 miles
Day 78: McMinnville to Portland, 45 miles
Day 79: Portland, 0 miles
Day 80: Portland to Centralia, 103 miles
Day 81: Tacoma, 0 miles
Day 82: Tacoma, 0 miles

Day 77: 5/28/14

I finally left Bike Newport at 3:00 p.m. after getting my laundry done, my devices charged and most importantly my new tires put on the bike and rode the few miles out of Newport to Beverly Beach State Park where I posted up for the night.  Before leaving Newport I'd stopped at a grocery store and picked up  a salad in a bag, some bananas, and a can of soup and had a regular old feast at the camp and got a nice little fire going.  

At about 1:00 a.m. was when the dark clouds came in and it decided to dump buckets of rain down on me for the next 10 hours....  Suffice it to say it was a pretty sleepless and cold night huddled in the tent trying to stay dry.  

By 8:00 a.m. the rain was still coming down with no signs of breaking so I started packing up in the rain and was on the road biking by 9:00 a.m. Let's just say the next few hours of riding were definitely not the most fun I've had on this trip.

Despite the weather I was able to make pretty decent time and got 50 miles to a little roadside diner called Fort Hill Diner in Willimina before deciding I had to get out of the rain and try to dry off a little and get warm.  After a delicious burger, some apple pie, a few dozen cups of coffee and another few dozen trips to the bathroom to use the hand dryer to dry out some of my clothes I decided it was time to get back on the road and do the last 26 miles to my warmshowers hosts for the night in McMinnville.

After I got to my hosts house I was shown back to the back yard by the roosters pen where I'd be sleeping and decided to pop the tent under the tree fort rather than climb up inside and sleep at elevation.  I got to meet Haley, her dad Steve and mom Melissa and got a delicious skewered steak and veggies meal as we shared travel stories.  Haley and her father have already trekked across country once to New York and Haley is in the midst of planning another trip that will zig zag  her around the country so she can touch all of the lower 48.  What an adventure!

Day 78: 5/29/14

After a good nights sleep I got an incredibly loud rooster wake up call at about 4:30 a.m. but I kept hitting snooze until I finally got up around 7:30 a.m.

I got a quick cup of coffee and got a sneak peak at Haley's maps and the route that she has planned out so far and then I got on the bike to ride the relatively short distance into Portland.

I got to Portland by mid afternoon and grabbed another cup of joe (I seriously might be developing a bit of an addiction to this coffee thing) at a cool coffee shop called Bipartisan Cafe and then went to meet Hilary and Paul.  Hilary, a friend of Lisa Lindberg's (my sister from another mister), is a fellow upstater who has been living out here for the last few years.  Paul is drummer and musician and they are awesome and graciously took me in for a night and boy what a day/night we had.  

After getting a much needed shower we headed out and went first to Base Camp Brewing Company for a beer and some shawarma fries.  I don't even know all of the things that were piled onto these fries but they were amazing.  From here we walked down to Cascade Brewing Barrell House and I was introduced to sour beer which is much more tasty than it might sound.  

From there it was collectively decided that we should be outside enjoying the beautiful weather and sunshine so Paul and Hilary grabbed their hucking disks and we drove to Dabney Disk Golf Course and got in some disk throwing at this really cool course.  This was another first for me and although I was no match for Hilary and Paul's skills I still had a lot of fun waking around the beautiful course and traversing down uncharted areas of the course to track down my damn disk...

We got through about 13 holes before the lighting started to become an issue and after all struggling on 14,15 and 16 we decided to call it a day and walked the last two holes and rode back into Portland, but this night wasn't over.  

Once we got back we hit up Fire on the Mountain, another really cool bar/restaurant and got some amazing wings and eats here.  We filled up on all the wings and food we could stuff into out faces and then finally went back to their house and crashed.  

Day 79: 5/30/14

I decided to stick around another day in Portland and do some more exploring so after some cereal and a nice cup of coffee I left Hilary and Paul's and ventured out into Northeast Portland to see what else I could find.

Throughout the day I ended up riding close to 20 miles as I tooled around on the different streets.  I got some much needed coffee earlier in the day on Alberta Street and then ventured over to North Mississippi Street and had some pretty incredible Mac and Cheese at a cool little restaurant called Mac! (Go figure...) and the rest of the day I spent riding around and getting a feel for the city.

After getting my fill of the city I rode the bike over to Old Town Brewing Company and got some dinner and a few drinks while watching game 6 of the Miami Heat and Indiana Pacers series.  It was the first game I've seen of the series and it was not a very fun one to watch.  Miami basically had the game clinched before half time but, I still enjoyed getting to see it and enjoyed the food and beverages.

After the game I rode to my hosts house for the night and after talking with my hosts, Evan and Lucy, for a bit I crashed.  It had been a long day and I was beat.

Day 80: 5/31/14

I felt good waking in the morning and after getting a nice cup of coffee and some oatmeal prepared by Evan, who by the way had the most epic of mullets that I've ever seen, I hit the road.

It was a perfect day for riding, temps in the low 60's, clear skies, little wind and great scenery abound.  I ended up pumping out some big miles, and by noon I'd already crossed the Lewis and Clark Bridge and entered into Washington and 50 miles logged already.  

I'd expected the ride from Portland to Joe's apartment, a good friend of mine from high school who lives near Seattle to take 3 days riding but after realizing the miles I was getting in I started to think I could do it in 2.  So when I contacted Joe to let him know I'd be a day early he got really excited on the other side of the line and started asking how far I'd be able to get today and whether I'd be okay with him coming to pick me up from wherever I ended... It turned out that Joe was moving apartments the next day and an extra body was just what he needed.  So we ended up deciding to meet in Centralia at a Wendy's where I gorged on some food before making the 50 mile trip up to his apartment.  Minus that 50 miles of driving that put my total miles for the day up to 103.  Also, my first century ride on the West Coast which I was happy I did.  (And I know what you are thinking... Brian, that's cheating!! What about those 50 driving miles?!?!?  Well, don't worry I'll be making up those 50 miles here in Tacoma before leaving the area so that I don't have any "cheating miles" so you can rest easy.)

Day 81-82: 6/01/14-6/02/14

June 1st was moving out and moving in day so after getting some coffee we drove Joe's truck to the U-Haul to pick up the trailer and started packing up at around 11:00 a.m.  from his 3rd floor apartment.  We finished packing everything up by about 3:30 p.m. and drove everything from his place in Kent to Tacoma and then unloaded everything there.  The unloading was much nicer than the loading and we finished up by 5:30-6:00 p.m.  All I can say is that the day before I'd ridden 103 miles on my bike and I think that I'd rather ride 103 miles than pack/unpack an apartment any day of the week.... I was using some muscles that I've been neglecting over these last few months ( i.e. Everything above my waist) and they did not like me very much for putting them through what I did.  There was one point while we were carrying down Joe's couch that I actually thought my forearm was going to explode. But it didn't and we made it through with no injuries so I will still consider it a good day.  Especially because we hit up a little Chinese Buffet while dropping off the trailer back to the U-Haul place so that made up for any pain or suffering from the day... It's amazing what an All-You-Can-Eat Buffet can fix!

June 2nd was my first real day off with no physical activity at all and it's been glorious so far.

Naturally, the day began with coffee and then shower and then some grocery shopping and now music and food and relaxing... So domestic!

So, as far as the itinerary for the trip goes I will be spending the next few days to a week here, or maybe as long as Joe can put up with me for because I'm really starting to feel comfortable over here in the Pacific Northwest, and then I'll push north for a few more days up towards Mount Vernon before turning back East across the Northern Tier.

Some updated stats and a few pics from the last couple days...

Total Days: 82 (including today), 54 days on Southern Tier, 28 days on Pacific Coast
On Bike Days: 63 total, 41 on ST, 22 on PC
Off Bike Days: 19 total, 13 on ST, 6 on PC
Total Miles: 4,683 miles, 3,107 on ST, 1,576 on PC
Avg. Miles Per Day: 74.3 overall, 75.8 on ST, 71.6 on PC
Most Miles in a Day: 125 (2x) on ST, 103 on Pacific Coast
Top Speed: 51 m.p.h on ST
Highest Pass: 8,228 ft. (Emory Pass, NM)
States Crossed: 10 (Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington)

Sleeping quarters in McMinnville

Portland, Oregon

Portland, Oregon

My one pic from Dabney Disk Golf Course... This place was awesome even if this pic doesn't do it justice.

Cool mural on Alberta Street in Portland

Alberta Street

Ridiculously good buffalo chicken mac and cheese at Mac! on North Mississippi Street

JalapeƱo cheddar Mac and cheese balls at Mac!

Lewis and Clark Bridge crossing from Oregon to Washington

My one pic of entering Washington

But seriously do they??????

Packing up at Joe's apartment... 

Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Day 71-76: Crescent City, Gold Beach, Bullards Beach, Honeyman State Park, Beachside State Park, Beverly Beach State Park

Day 71: Eureka to Crescent City, 88 miles
Day 72: Crescent City to Gold Beach, Oregon, 59 miles
Day 73: Gold Beach to Bullards Beach State Park, 60 miles
Day 74: Bullards to Honeyman State Park, 74 miles
Day 75: Honeyman to Beachside State Park, 36 miles
Day 76: Beachside to Beverly Beach State Park, 27 miles

Day 71: 5/22/14

Today was a long day of riding in cool temps and headwinds in the 15-20 m.p.h.  I rode 88 miles to Crescent City, CA just on the edge of the California/Oregon border and stopped at a warmshowers host which ended up being St. Paul's Trinity Church in right in Crescent.  I met Katie, the host here, at the church and she showed me around the inside.  There were a bunch of tables where they do free meals every other Thursday and then a few couches and a bathroom that were at my disposal for the night.  After that she showed me where the key was to go in and and out and wished me luck on the rest of my journey and she left.  I had the whole spot to myself!  So I cranked up the pandora and went to shower up.  As I was showering I started to hear voices out in the rec area and first thought that maybe God had finally come down to have a chat with me about my life.  My second thought was damn! I didn't bring any clothes into the bathroom with me so  I was going to be meeting God in my birthday suit... My luck.  

So I finished the shower and wrapped up in my towel and walked out to hear what the Big Man had to say to me.  But, when I got out there I was instead met by  Bruce and Karen.  I felt a bit more embarrassed standing in front of them being so scantily clad than if it had actually been Gosh from up on high but they forgave me just the same.

After getting some clothes on I ended up having a really good night cooking a DiGiorno pizza and talking with them.  Bruce was a retired military man who had done a x-c trip himself back in '81 and Karen was his wife, an artist/interior designer.  They hailed from Ohio where they also ran a B&B there in an old historic home and were headed down the coast and eventually across the country to Boston.  They were also riding a pretty sweet custom-made tandem bike. 

Day 72: 5/23/14

High temp for the day was 64 and winds from the North again at 10-15 m.p.h.  I headed out from Crescent City at at 8:30 a.m. and at about 10:00 a.m. It started to rain and then just after that I got a flat on my front tire... Califronia didn't want me to leave!

After getting the tube replaced I crossed into Brookings, Oregon and officially left California.  It was a bittersweet feeling.  On the one side I was happy to be progressing along on this coast, but at the same time I was sad to be leaving Cali.  

In Brookings I grabbed lunch and picked up a few more tubes for my stock and then road along the coast to Gold Beach with some pretty fantastic views of the coast the whole way.  I stayed the night in Gold Beach RV Park and for the first time in a while I actually felt my legs being sore while I laid out in my tent that night.  The wind has definitely been taking its toll along with the almost constant up and down terrain.

Day 73: 5/24/14

I still woke up feeling a bit tired and almost contemplating taking the day off but once I got up and going I started feeling better despite the 20-25 m.p.h. headwinds that I had for the entirety of the day.

I ended up doing 60 miles and ended at Bullards Beach State Park just north of Bandon, OR.  

The campground was completely full with Memorial Day Weekend folks but thankfully they still had some hike/bike sites available which I gladly took for $5.

At the campsite I met Max and Eric, two grad students from Nashville, who were riding south down the coast and we got to exchange some advice/stories from the road.  Max told me about this crazy old lady in a tent that he met a few days earlier (and funny enough I stayed with her in Beachside State Park...small world)

Day 74: 5/25/14

The winds had calmed for the day and I had a really nice day of riding.  Ended up doing 74 miles to Honeyman State Park at another Hike and Bike campsite which was really nice minus the Mosquitos that were swarming everywhere.  

After I started up a fire they dispersed a bit and the rest of the night was quite relaxing and peaceful.... Until about 4:00 a.m. when it started to rain.  Thankfully, I had my rain fly on the tent and it did it's job and I stayed dry and warm in the tent.  

Day 75: 5/26/14

It rained well into the morning and I laid in the tent hoping that it would stop, but by 8:30 a.m. it was still coming down so I decided I had to get up and deal with it.  I was moving very slow and everything was damp and wet but I had already decided to do a short day so I was in no rush.  

I rode 4 miles and stopped at a McDonald's for some spicy McChickens and a hot fudge sundae and of course a large diet coke and then rode to Beachside State Park to make it 36 miles for the day.

At the hike/bike campsite was the crazy lady that Max had told me about a few nights earlier and we had the whole place just to ourselves....

I walked into the space and she popped her head out of her little dome tent with a joint lazily stuck out of the corner of her mouth.  "I thought I heard something," she said and gave me a crackly tooth little grin.  

I ended up making some peanut butter and honey and banana sandwiches for the both of us and we ate sandwiches, and cookies (that I'd also purchased earlier in the day) and I scrounged up some abandoned wood at a few of the other sites and we sat around for the night talking and eating and enjoying the fire and the sound of the waves just on the other side of the trees that served as a barrier between the campsite and the beach.

All in all it was a pretty fun and interesting night with Dolores (the crazy lady) who ended up not being so crazy after all.  Quirky for sure, but she still had her head on mostly straight..

Day 76: 5/27/14

After packing up at Beachside I rode into Newport where there was a bike shop (Newport Bike) that served as a "day hostel" for touring cyclists.  I've gotten a shower and was able to do laundry and now am charging up the phone and relaxing in their upstairs lounge while they change out my tires for new ones... I finally gave in and decided after 4,500 miles that I should get some new tires on the old beast.  Hopefully, these new guys will get be at least back to New York.  Today will again be a short day and I'll be ending in Beverly Beach State park just north of Newport.  

Tomorrow will be back to some more regular miles days en route to Portland and then Seattle.  

Day 71 ride into Crescent.... Lots of fog and wind

Day 71 Fog again...

St. Paul's Trinity Church where I stayed in Crescent City 

Leaving Crescent City on morning of day 72 (pic snapped by Bruce)

Officially crossing into Oregon in Brookings, OR on Day 72

Oregon coast outside of Gold Beach

Bruce!!!!!

Oregon Coast

Camping spot at Bullards Beach just north of Bandon

Leaving Bullards Beach

Coos Bay

Hiker/Biker site at Honeyman State Park

More Oregon Cost...

Oregon....

Very cool town of Yachats outside south of Beachside State Park

Yachats, OR

Bridge into Newport, OR

Newport, OR

Bike Newport

Bike Newport

Touring Biker Lounge at Newport Bike shop complete with TV, Computer, shower and laundry!

Monday, May 19, 2014

Day 66-70: Bodega Bay, Elk, Westport, Weott, Eureka

 Day 66: San Fran to Bodega Bay, 82 miles
Day 67: Bodega Bay to Elk, 90 miles
Day 68: Elk to Westport, 43 miles
Day 69: Westport to Weott, 77 miles
Day 70: Weott to Eureka, 58 miles

After spending another night in San Francisco I headed out Saturday and made my way through the city and across the Golden Gate Bridge to continue my trek North.  Both Saturday and Sunday were very windy. The winds were coming from the North and Northwest ranging from 15-30 m.p.h. basically nonstop... Very frustrating.  

Besides that though I was on Shoreline Highway which was a pretty incredible ride for scenic views.  Much of the days I was right on the water on bluffs that looked down on the coast and all along it were these amazing rock formations that stuck up out of the water like little statues... If only I could have hit the off switch on the wind.  Saturday night I stopped at Bodega Bay Dunes State Park and got a $5 hike/bike campsite for the night.  Sunday I stayed with a warmshowers host just north of Elk by the name of Judy.  She lived up in the hills above Shoreline Highway on a small farm that was a picturesque little spot as well.. Pics below.

On Monday (Day 68) I decided to go easy and only rode 43 miles and stopped at Westport-Union Landing State Beach Park.  This was a primitive campground right off of the highway but, the views completely made up for the lack of amenities and services.  The campground stood right on the edge of a cliff that overlooked the ocean.  The campsite was also almost completely empty which only added to the magical nature of the place.  All in all it ended up being a really great and rejuvenating night filled with a nice little campfire and about 6 peanut butter, honey and banana sandwiches and a nice sunset over the water.

Tuesday morning I started off with one of the more grueling sections on this route, a 28-mile section with a few climbs totally close to 3000 ft. in total climbing which I got through in less than 3 hours which I was pretty happy about.  On the backside of the climb I entered into Redwood country and stopped at the drive through Chandelier Tree in Leggett that stood at 315 ft. tall and 21 ft. in diameter and had a max age of 2400 years old.

After a lunch break and my visit with the Chandelier tree I pushed on and rode through Garberville (a small hippie town that was actually pretty cool) and then onto the Avenue of the Giants.  

Now, if you ever want to feel small take a trip up to Northern California and take a ride down this road.  It will blow your mind.  The road takes you right through Redwood grove after Redwood grove and their immensity just towers over you. It was such an incredible ride and none of my pictures do it justice but, they atleast give you a sense of what it was like.  I ended the night in Burlington State Park at another Hike/Bike Campsite and while getting my tent up and preparing to make some more peanut butter and honey and banana sandwiches for dinner I was approached by my neighbors and they graciously invited me over for dinner and drinks at their campsite.  After a great meal I went back to my campsite to crash for the night and noticed another rider that had come in late.

This rider was Dominic from Reno,NV who was travelling North to South down the Pacific and he ended up being a really cool guy with lots of biking and outdoors and travel knowledge and some great stories from the road including one that involved a 5:00 a.m.  wake up call from some barking seals that included a remarkably good impression of the aforementioned barking seals.  

This morning I woke up and got a deliciously strong coffee prepared by Dom which I trading a peanut butter and honey and banana sandwich for and then I was off towards Eureka.  I finished my ride through the Avenue of the Giants and then rode the last 40 miles or so along Route 101, a bland highway with not many redeeming qualities, and ended  at my hosts for the night Dick and Kathy in their awesome house tucked away in the woods.  

We just finished a great meal and drank some tea and now I'm reading through some of their scrapbooks from past travelers that have come through their house and am about to get a little show from Dick's brass quartet that have a rehearsal here in the house tonight.  Earlier when I arrived Dick took me back to see his apple and pear orchards and his bees that he keeps out behind his house.  Another great night and maybe my second to last day in California... How sad.

View of San Fran from Sausalito across the Golden Gate Bridge

 Sausalito, CA

Hiker/Biker campsite at Bodega Bay Dunes State Park

View from Jenner where I stopped for coffee after leaving Bodega Bay

Jenner, CA

Shoreline Highway en route to Elk

Shoreline Highway en route to Elk

Shoreline Highway en route to Elk

Shoreline Highway en route to Elk

My hosts house just north of Elk

My little setup at my hosts house just north of Elk

Westport-Union Landing State Beach

Westport-Union Landing State Beach

Sunset at Westport-Union Landing State Beach

Sunset at Westport-Union Landing State Beach

Chandelier Tree, Leggett, CA

Highway 101 en route to Weott

Avenue of the Giants

Avenue of the Giants

Avenue of the Giants

Day 70 views leaving Avenue of the Giants

Dick and Kathy's house in Eureka